Autometer Phantom Boost Gauge Install - 99 +
By Brian Kimmel
Parts Required:
1 - Autometer 2-5/8" Phantom Boost Gauge, #5801
1 - Autometer 2-5/8" Single Gauge Pod, #15305
1 - Rubber vacuum 'T' connector, 7/64"
3' - Black wire, 18awg
3' - Blue (or White) wire, 18 awg
4" Heat Shrink Tubing
Total Cost: $80.00
Tools Required:
Drill, with a 3/16" bit
Dremel ( or a drill with a large bit will work )
Wire cutters/strippers
Soldering Iron
Skill Level:
Entry to Mid level. Don't be afraid to cut your door pillar trim.
Installation Time:
1 to 2 hours. Depending on skill level and anal-retentiveness.
Installing the Gauge:
Step 1) Mark the location of the Autometer Gauge pod. Choose your location based
on personal preference. I recommend inserting the gauge to get the best location
for your physical needs. For my install, I positioned the top of the gauge pod
17" from the top of the pillar trim piece. Mark the top and bottom of the gauge
pod on the pillar trim using a pencil.
Step 2) Remove the factory pillar trim. Lightly pull the trim from the top.
There are no screws, just a few push-on clips holding it on.
Step 3) This is a good time to use some fine sandpaper or a fine file to remove
any sharp or obtrusive edges that may be on your gauge pod. Align the gauge pod
on the pillar trim according to your marks made in step 1. Drill 1 3/16" hole in
each corner of the gauge pod. I drilled about ½" from the top & bottom edges and
about ¼" from the side of the gauge pod. Be sure to go through the pillar trim
too. After drilling each hole, insert the trim plug provided in the Autometer
gauge pod package.
Step 4) Turn the pillar trim over, so the gauge pod is facing the ground and
make a hole for the boost host and electrical wires through the back of the
pillar. The holes should be towards the bottom of the gauge pod ( where the
bottom, back of the gauge will be ). Its easy to use a dremmel tool but you
could also drill a couple large holes.
Step 5) Put the green cover over the gauge light. Solder the 3' black and blue
wires to the existing black and white wires of the autometer lamp. Note: I used
a blue wire only because I think of it similar to a amplifier's remote turn on
lead. Cover with heat shrink tubing.
Step 6) Connect the ¼" to 1/8" brass adapter to the back of the gauge. Be sure
to use Nylon Plummers Tape (NPT) or an equivilent sealer on the threads. Insert
the boost tube through the brass sealing nut and ferrule. Tighten hand tight
plus ¼ turn.
Step 7) Run the Boost hose and light wires through the holes in the pillar trim
and insert the gauge into the pod. Test the fit and also the boost hose & wires
for kinks or bad fits. If needed, make a larger hole for the wires & hose to run
through. When a good fit is obtained, remove the gauge about half way out of the
pod.
Step 8) Run the wires and boost tube down the side of the dash into the fuse box
area. It will help a lot to remove the plastic trim cover from the fuse box
area.
Step 9) Re-install the pillar trim in the truck.
Step 10) Attach the black (ground) wire to an appropriate grounding point. I
used one at the bottom of the fuse panel.
Step 11) Connect the blue (power) wire to the dimmer circuit. I used the good
old dimmer fuse for this. It is a 5 AMP fuse located in the 2nd row, the 4th one
from the bottom. Remove the fuse, insert the wire into one side, and re-install
the fuse.
Step 12) Disconnect the factory 'L' connector from the factory boost hose. This
'L' is located just under the bottom of the dash, just to the left of the gas
pedal. The factory boost hose can be identified coming from the firewall. Its
black, hard plastic, with the Ford part# tag on it.
Step 13) Using the 7/64" rubber vacuum 'T' connector, connect the 2 factory
boost hoses and the new Autometer hose (clear).
Step 14) Site in the drivers seat and get the best angle of view to the boost
gauge by twisting the gauge clockwise/counterclockwise. When you have the best
view, finish inserting the gauge into the pod.
Testing the installation:
Step 1) Start the lightning. Verify that BOTH the factory and Autometer gauges
show a vacuum.
Step 2) Stop the lightning. Verify that BOTH the factory and Autometer gauges
show 0 (zero). I found my stock gauge to show vacuum.
And now the part we have all been waiting for………..
Test Drive the Lightning. Out of curiosity, I found myself paying more attention
to the gauge then the road, so be careful!!!
Pros: It looks cool!! Really, it will provide a much more accurate boost reading
than the stock gauge. If you are curious or plan on uping the boost, it's a
must. It really does look stock with the black gauge pod.
Cons: Working with that hard plastic boost tube is a real P.I.T.A. (Pain in the
Ass). Finding the rubber vacuum 'T' connector at the local parts store. For a
$1.50 part it sure is hard to find.
Good Luck, if you have any comments or questions, email
tech@nvlope.org